L'Ortolan Review

We visited L'Ortolan on the 22nd July 2010 a party of five we wanted to try the Michelin starred experience but with the lunchtime budget option. L'Ortolan offered a 2 course lunch at £24 or 3 courses for £pound;29 and the menu had 3 standard choices for each course plus a Chef's special for each course at a slight premium.

On the day we went the standard courses offered were exactly those shown on their websites "example" menu which I think has pros and cons. On the upside I have often read longingly through a sample menu and really set my heart on a specific dish only to arrive at a restaurant for it to not be offered. On the downside there was less menu reading excitement to be had on arrival and it leaves one wondering how often the lunch is updated.

The menu was as follows:

• CHEF'S APPETISER
• Starters
• HAM - SMOKED HAM HOCK TERRINE, HOMEMADE PICALILLI
• MACKEREL - TARTARE OF CORNISH MACKEREL, JAPANESE SALAD
• GAZPACHO - CHILLED GAZPACHO, GOAT CHEESE MOUSSE,CHARENTAIS MELON and TOMATO SORBET
• Main Course
• PORK - GLAZED CONFIT OF PORK,ROAST CARROTS and BLACK PUDDING
• SALMON - PAN FRIED ORGANIC SALMON, ENGLISH ASPARAGUS and HOLLANDAISE SAUCE
• LAMB - ROASTED RUMP OF LAMB, MOROCCAN SPICES and SMOKED AUBERGINE PURÉE
• Chefs special was Red Mullet
• CHEF'S PRE DESSERT
• Puddings and Cheese
• APRICOT - POACHED APRICOT & PISTACHIO PANNA COTTA
• CHOCOLATE & RASPBERRY MANJARI CHOCOLATE TART, RASPBERRY CONFIT and WHITE CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM
• CHEESE - A SELECTION OF 3 CHEESES FROM THE TROLLEY, RAISIN BREAD and HOME MADE BISCUITS

I last visited L'Ortolan about 15 years previously and very little has changed decor wise or style wise. A lovely house and garden set in a funny little location. Plenty of on site parking. General French fine dining theme. There is a bar on arrival and the pace is very leisurely but not in a slow "where is my meal" sort of way. It is perfect for a slow expeience with friends to really savour and enjoy. We did not avail outselves of the bar on this occasion and we still spent 2 hours in the restaurant.

The Maitre 'D on arrival was very friendly and helpful as were all of the staff who made us feel very welcome. Sometimes a little hard to understand their English however. Our fellow diners included a couple of businessmen, two older couples, of which one looked like they were celebrating and the other looked like they were just enjoying a damned good retirement and I found myself hoping I would be able to afford such luxury mid week lunches when I reach their age.

3 Breads were presented with butter at the table. Brown with fennel seeds , white with poppy seeds and a plain white french style flour roll. All were excellent, extremely fresh and I suspect baked on the premises but no claim was made as to that. When the bread is that good you know what follows will be great and we were not disappointed.

Starters

The Chef's appetiser was curried carrot batons in a veloute, additionally spiced with kalonji and fresh coriander which was extremely good and enjoyed by all.

The Ham and Picalli was a very good take on a ploughmans as a starter. Excelent home made picalilli and great ham but it left you feeling a bit like you had just had a pub lunch so perhaps this dish needs a little extra something to set it apart.

The Mackerel was well presented and an extremely good working of Japanese Sashimi concepts into a modern French presentation. Soy and Horseradish delicately balanced to enhance the cured mackerel without overpowering it, this is a triumph of a dish and an example of very good balance.

Gazpacho was very well presented and a nicely balanced set of flavours.

Main Courses

The Pork Confit was probably the triumph of the 3 main courses. Slow cooked confit of pork with creamy black pudding among the best I have tasted with crackling which just lacked a little seasoning but was other wise perfect.

The lamb rump itself was as tender and delicious as lamb can get, perfectly pink and warm so probably cooked using sous vide method. The aubergibne puree and couscous however lacked a little flavour to back up the dish.

The salmon was pan fried and the skin nice and crispy but the middle was not left pink. No choice on that was offered when ordering (unlike the lamb) which is a shame. Hollondaise and aspargus with mash nicely presented and delicious

Pudding

The cheese board at L'Ortolan is fantastic and the cheeses perfectly kept and served. The home made biscuits were also very good.

The sweet desserts were both lovely in presentation but not as good as one might have hoped. Apricot and pistachio seemed an odd combination on the palate and was overpowered with marzipan tones from an almond extract.

Summing up

On the whole this was very good experience, good setting, great ambience, some great moments in the meal just let down here and there with dishes or touches that could have been better. As these were well trod dishes they should have all been perfect. Were we being subject to experimental dishes for lunch I would have been happy to take the rough with the smooth. That said I would recommend a visit because at £29 a head it is great value. If the menu stays the same go for the mackerel, Pork and Cheese and you will leave feeling like you dined like a king on a baron's budget!

Other restaurant reviews in Berkshire: